Bid adieu to French drugstore discoveries and say goodbye to 18-steps of SoKo skincare; G-Beauty is here armed with science and real results. Famed for advances in plasma therapy, methodical formulas, and scientific skin rejuvenation, Dr. Barbara Sturm has been at the helm of Germany’s beauty renaissance. With clients like Cher, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Kim Kardashian, Dr. Sturm works on the industry’s most sought-after complexions. Hailey Bieber has made no secret of her love for Dr. Sturm’s custom MC1 blood cream, so it’s hardly surprising that the Western world is turning to the German products for instantly effective skincare. Today, Dr. Sturm launched her brand-new Clarifying Line for problematic skin and spoke to L’Officiel USA about the European way.
TANYA AKIM: What is the pièce de résistance of the Clarifying Line?
DR. BARBARA STURM: I created my Dr. Barbara Sturm Clarifying Line as a comprehensive regime to address a specific skin need, so the entire collection is the pièce de résistance.
TA: How can Zinc transform complexions?
BS: A 2013 review of Zinc clinical studies showed that oral and topical forms of Zinc can help treat acne. The authors of that study found evidence indicating that Zinc has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, and those are two of the key factors in the appearance of acne. Zinc also appears to decrease oil production on the skin, a third factor in acne.
TA: What are your views on the relationship between trace minerals and skin clearing?
BS: I would say both trace minerals and Vitamins have been shown to have a positive effect on skin clearing. Zinc is a trace element that is necessary for many physiological processes. In acne treatments, Zinc has been studied for decreasing sebum production, and for its antibacterial effect. A 2013 study investigated the blood levels of Zinc, Vitamin A, and Vitamin E in people with and without acne. The researchers found much lower levels of all of these vitamins and minerals in the people experiencing acne. That study concluded a positive correlation between these trace minerals and vitamins and the prevention and treatment of acne.
A 2014 Journal of Investigative Dermatology study also found that Vitamin A disrupts some of the effects that the acne bacteria has on skin cells.
TA: How does Europe’s approach to skincare differ from the US?
BS: Generally, Europe has a less aggressive, more ingredient science focused approach to skincare than the US. European consumers are very cautious and observant regarding the safety and efficacy of skincare ingredients. The EU also has an animal testing ban to avoid that barbaric and unnecessary step to determine product safety for consumers.
TA: What is one of the biggest misconceptions about clearing and maintaining clear skin?
BS: Available acne approaches have barely changed for decades. The common misconception to addressing acne mirrors the common misperception to all skin approaches. The key to clearing skin is not to attack it with aggressive and drying ingredients. My approach is to address the causative factors of acne using a healing, inflammation-reducing approach, and by supporting and strengthening the skin matrix and skin barrier function.
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