Roman designer Pierpaolo Piccioli has created a poetic aura—a mood out of Valentino this season. His collection for Paris Fashion Week, which was shown on Sunday evening, was an infusion of couture and poetry. It transported spectators to a dramatic and romantic scene reminiscent of the Movement for the Emancipation of Poetry which was a time when artists would anonymously display lines from poems onto city walls all over the world. Both beautiful forms of art, couture and poetry took on a contemporary twist with pieces including bucket hats, neoclassical-inspired coats, and delicate ensembles of tulle and feathers, all which made the luxury brand’s classical values seem modern.
Every piece was ejected with emotion between graphics of blood-red roses and couples romantically embracing, reflective Piccioli’s collaboration with Jun Takahashi from Undercover. These motifs had an emotional, heartfelt, if not melancholic messaging that created a universal language out of the theme of love. Speaking to this theme was the small books of poetry, Valentino ON LOVE placed on every seat. In addition to this was an illuminated board with lines by the Scottish poet and artist Robert Montgomery that read, "The people you love become ghosts inside of you and like this you keep them alive."
"I feel that people are looking for emotion and dreams—but not distant dreams," said Piccioli before the start of his show. Himself a dreamer, Piccioli created a universe out of his collection with haute volumes and along with practical pieces for the everyday woman such as collared suits, long skirts, and turtlenecks. Some outfits spoke to a younger audience such as a slim-fitting mini-dress and a simple, relaxed white suit. The color combinations were all-encompassing with Camelot-inspired black leather capes, while other garments were more appealing for Spring with pleated skirts of yellows and pinks, embellished by sheer scarves tied in bows around many of the models’ necks. The evening wear was, in one word, dreamy: floor-sweeping silk gowns, sheer dresses with ruffled collars, sequined embroideries of flowers, butterflies and, of course, more poetry. Between cut and balance, volume and silhouette, color and shadow, the collection spoke to all and went beyond seasons and lifestyles, sure to remain relevant for generations to come.