The union between art and fashion has always been a popular alliance since the time of Schiaparelli, whose lobster dress in collaboration with Salvador Dalí became an iconic piece that many reference and some even analyze theoretically. Each is an expressive form of visual culture, and pairing sartorial craft with the pictorial statements we normally see on the walls of museums has become common (though consistently fascinating) practice.
Jeremy Scott was thinking along these lines when developing the concept for his Spring 2020 collection for Moschino. He looked to iconic cubist Pablo Picasso, using forms and colors from the artist's immense pictorial production in hopes of recreating and reimagining the painter's visceral relationships with the many women in his life.
Passion, torment, love, and betrayal came to sartorial life in the veritable runway show, where a colorful palette and past artistic masterpieces defined shapes and moldings. The likes of Bella Hadid, Kaia Gerber, and Irina Shayk became authentic tableuax vivants as they walked in looks resembling famous works, from the portrait of The Weeping Woman to the torment in Guernica, touched by Scott's eccentric pop language. The angular lines of Cubism define the silhouettes, alternating with splendid volumes of seemingly two-dimensional boleros, a tribute to the Andalusian vestimenta tradition. Even the accessories did not escape the collection's pictorial fury, featuring bulls' heads, violins, and a fun bucket bag that perfectly resembles the tin can where brushes are put away.
The show closed with Gigi Hadid walking down the runway in a white bridal dress. In Spring 2019, Hadid had been Scott's mariée with massive train of butterflies to go with the collection's unfinished sketches theme, but this time was all about sculpted craft (from the silhouette to the massive bows) in the spirit of a finished masterpiece. For the final walk, Rosalía's "Que No Salga La Luna" played as models gave the audience the fashion version of a gallery tour.