Alejandro Gómez Palomo only launched his menswear brand, Palomo Spain, in 2015. But last Tuesday he became the most important designer at Paris Fashion Week with his Fall 2018 collection, entitled “Hunting.”
A take on hunting apparel, the brilliantly modern collection drew heavily from the past—specifically the 16th and 17th centuries, and earlier. Slashed doublets and sleeves, trunk hose (yes, those voluminous shorts have a real name), boots with turned over tops, and capes, all exquisitely rendered in vibrant silks and brocades, making the models look as though they stepped out of a painting.
While Palomo has been honing his aesthetic for the past few years, the timing of “Hunting” could not be better, as it feels as though we’re on the brink of radical shift in men’s fashion. The past few years has seen the industry slowing gaining in prominence, and with that, an increased eye on what men wear. The Pitti Uomo menswear shows are now a major destination for street style photographers hoping to nab a shot of the “Pitti Peacocks”—the extremely dapper dandies that attend the shows. Skate and streetwear brands have developed intense followings, especially amongst young men who wouldn’t necessarily have been a target fashion demographic in decades past. Meanwhile, a new generation of rappers with a public appreciation of contemporary (and sometimes conceptual) designers has seen designer like Raf Simons and Martin Margiela go from having a cult fashion following, to becoming mainstream names. If there was ever a time for style conscious men to be the new norm, and for gender specific clothing to end, it will be soon—if not now already.