The beauty legend&nbsp;opens up her archive to L’OFFICIEL,&nbsp;reflecting on her creative journey and new collaboration with Nicolas Ghesquière&nbsp;for La Beauté Louis Vuitton.

Ask Pat McGrath where her love of beauty began, and she’ll point to a lipstick. “I would use it on myself, my friends, even my dolls,” she says. “I loved the transformation it offered—that’s when I knew makeup was magical.” Her fascination was nurtured at home in Northampton, England. “My mother was a makeup collector,” says McGrath, 56. “She encouraged me to play with color, experiment with texture, and be confident.”
That curiosity would make McGrath a defining force in beauty, earning her the nickname “Mother of Makeup.” But long before receiving a damehood from Queen Elizabeth II, launching her eponymous beauty brand, and becoming creative director of cosmetics for Louis Vuitton, her beginnings in 1980s London were “pure madness, in the best way.” With no formal training, innovation became her greatest asset. “There was no blueprint waiting for me,” she says. “I built everything from instinct. The industry offered so little for deeper skin tones that I mixed my own pigments and created shades that didn’t exist. It was frustrating but sharpened my imagination.”
At her first fashion shows in the early ’90s, McGrath honed her craft backstage. “My heart would be racing, yet my hands were perfectly steady,” she says. “I understood that adrenaline could become creative fuel, and I still feel a version of it before every show.” After more than three decades of creating runway beauty for Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Givenchy, and Prada, she describes her process as “a mix of spontaneity and discipline” and embraces social media as “a visual playground,” though she cautions against chasing trends. “Beauty should be about individuality, not uniformity,” she says.
Though McGrath has created countless iconic looks—from porcelain doll–like makeup at Maison Margiela to faux feather–adorned lashes at Valentino—she believes the most memorable beauty reveals rather than conceals. “I’m fascinated by the tension between fantasy and reality,” she says. That balance guides her work at Louis Vuitton, where her “sumptuous brown” Spring/Summer 2024 looks remain a favorite. “People assume my favorite looks are the most extreme, but there is enormous discipline in restraint.”

Now, McGrath and Louis Vuitton Artistic Director Nicolas Ghesquière are bringing that runway artistry to consumers through a new eye and lip collection for La Beauté Louis Vuitton, inspired by the Monogram Dune and Monogram Infrarouge canvases and celebrating the Monogram’s 130th anniversary. “It was about translating the codes of the house into textures, tones, and emotions,” says McGrath. The Monogram also holds a special place in her collection, which includes a cherished Louis Vuitton Boîte Chapeau. “I’ve always been fascinated by vintage Louis Vuitton trunks,” she says. “I could spend hours wandering flea markets, searching for treasures like this hatbox. It’s a reminder that even the smallest accessory deserves extraordinary care.”

For McGrath, beauty has always been rooted in exploration. “Every city seduces me in a different way,” she says. “Paris is eternally inspiring for its craftsmanship, history, and couture. London is part of my soul and taught me that creativity comes from freedom and rebellion. New York is pure adrenaline. And I’m obsessed with the brilliance coming out of Shanghai, Seoul, and Tokyo.” Still, inspiration can be found anywhere. “It’s in the unexpected moments of beauty you stumble upon when you’re not even looking,” she says. “That, to me, is where the real magic lives.”

The Magic of Makeup, According to Pat McGrath

Tags

Related Articles

Beauty

Pat McGrath On Turning Runway Makeup Into Night-Out Glam

Beauty

Pat McGrath: Everything to Know About the Legendary “Mother of Makeup”

Beauty

Pat McGrath on Her Love for Makeup and its Ability to Transform

Recommended posts for you

Beauty

The Magic of Makeup, According to Pat McGrath

Shopping

Vintage-Inspired Pouches Are Taking Over the Night

Fashion

A Brief History of Tennis Whites

Fashion

Behind the Veil: Fashion's Most Romantic New Silhouette

Travel & Living

The Best Apéritifs To Embrace Eurosummer

Travel & Living

What To Do Around New York During The US Open

Fashion

Ditch The Sweats, Tuxedo Dressing Is Here To Stay

Fashion

Raja Doggo Is Bringing High Design to the Dog Bed