On Tuesday, Maria Grazia Chiuri presented her Spring 2020 collection for Dior, transforming the heart of Hippodrome de Longchamps into an ecological botanical garden on the outskirts of Paris. For the show, Chiuri worked with Coloco, a Paris-based environmental design company in part of her overall effort this season to sensitize the fashion sphere to the climate emergency.
Chiuri is not alone in having an environmental element in her show—Marine Serre's Paris Fashion Week collection, which she titled Marée Noire, or "Oil Spill", presented a range of apocalyptic uniforms with climate undertones. Serre and Chiuri both presented just one day after Greta Thunberg delivered her powerful speech to the U.N. as part of Climate Week in New York City, helping to bring the environmental sentiments across the Atlantic and into an industry that's grappling with how to lessen its footprint. See five highlights from the show below.
The Botanical Set
Over 150 trees were present around the venue. After the show, the trees are headed to three different destinations on the outskirts of Paris. Guests including up-and-coming actress Sophia Lillis spent their pre-show moments exploring the makeshift forest and even had the opportunity to scan a QR code on the labels of each tree to find out where it would be replanted.
Unveiling a couture botanical wardrobe, the designer imagined outfits of gardeners upgraded delicate details embroidered, redefining the codes of the house. The influence? Photographs depicting Christian Dior's sister Catherine, AKA Miss Dior, in her garden among the flowers. In addition to having a passion for literal gardening, the stylish muse flourished as a free, independent woman.
A Touch of Straw
The culmination of this show is a maximalist interpretation of "rustic": an evening dress made entirely of straw. The material was also available on hats, or more subtly on the ever-trendy logo sneakers.
While tie-dye made a noticeable comeback in the dressage of fashionistas last summer, it seems that the trend is continuing on to next summer. The colorful technique brought an air of summery sustainability to denim, evening dresses, and jumpsuits.
Available in a tied version or with espadrille soles, the sandals were the stars of this show. Sitting next to a slew of calibrated accessories, they came to sublimate the evening dresses, overalls, and other combinations.