Fashion Week

The Highlights of Milan Fashion Week Men's Fall 2019

What a week!
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Versace Celebrates New Masculinity

What would the house of Versace become after Michael Kors Holdings acquired it last September? That was the question on everyone's mind before Donatella Versace sent 52 looks down the runway for Versace Men's Fall 2019. Starting the procession with familiar Versace silhouettes, the 63-year-old artistic director had a few tricks up her sleeve this go around. The collection featured loose, lightweight cotton trousers, leather jackets, elements of bondage and of course, homages to Gianni Versace. It was an explosion of colors and patterns as Donatella Versace no longer hesitates to pile on the layers and superimpose flashy turtlenecks, silk shirts, and wool sweaters. There was something for everyone in this new collection, once again in classic Versace fashion, highlighting a perfect balance between classicism and modernity. Special mention in the 5-star female cast with Kaia Gerber, Bella Hadid, Vittoria Ceretti, and Emily Ratajkowski, among others.

Karl Lagerfeld Inspires Fendi

Say goodbye to the sporty aesthetic that Fendi has come to embody—at least for now. Because when timeless creator and collaborator Karl Lagerfeld is involved, he means business. That business came in the form of tailored, slouchy suits in black and neutral shades. The Fendi logo was redesigned and printed on fur bomber jackets. To further romanticize the long-standing relationship between the Italian house and Lagerfeld, collaged prints comprised of handwritten notes, images, and sketches between Lagerfeld's Paris studio and the Fendi offices in Rome found their way onto silk shirts, trench coats, and bags. Did we mention that the house also teamed up with Japanese luggage and accessories brand Porter to give a fresh update to the brand's bags and accessories? Iconic. And good news boys: the classic Baguette bag with its double F metal clasp was introduced for men in both crocodile and mink. Need I say more?

Billionaire Hosted a Wintry Polo Match

Polo match, but make it fashion! There's nothing quite like attending a polo match in the dead of winter—yes, you read that right. Philipp Plein, designer for the brand Billionaire (As well as his own eponymous line), hosted a four-minute game of pre-runway polo, played by the Monte Carlo team. Attendees stood in the cold as they watched the mini-match followed by the models walking the runway in an elevated version of the polo look. Jackets were found in every length, pattern, and material—from a short and snakeskin to a long, hounds-tooth piece with a mink collar. Keeping with the equestrian theme, each model donned skin-tight trousers tucked into knee-high riding boots. Next time you plan a horseback riding lesson, don't forget your crocodile skin saddle. 

Gigi Hadid Finally Walked Prada

Italian house Prada dove into an unknown abyss with their new collection directly inspired by monsters like Frankenstein. Miuccia Prada paid homage to The Addams family, opening her parade with entirely black silhouettes. The men wore cross-jackets and trousers, cinching their waists with multiple-layered leather belts. Could this be the new thing? The women wore knee-length black dresses paired with chunky platform oxfords. As the show brightens up, we see colorful sweaters in chunky wool knits, elevated with fur shoulders. Many of the looks feature a black satin cap that mimics the look of colored hair, the idea itself seems overdone, but the execution comes across as successful. A dark and almost military inspiration for this new Prada collection drew in the new trends of next winter. Bring on the cold!

MSGM Went Up In Flames

MSGM showed a need for speed in its Milan show. The turbo-themed collection mixed references to motor-racing culture with a Nineties post-punk attitude. There were graphic motifs, featuring comic strips and newspaper fonts, as well as flames and animal prints, the most iconic look possibly being this white and gold, smokey print set. The show took us on a journey from monochromatic looks to neutrals, and neons to metallics, proving that they truly had something for everyone. Massimo Giorgetti leaves us feeling fast and furious with this collection.

Marni Got Playful

Would it really be fashion week if we weren't given a collection compiled with oversized silhouettes and unisex looks? Well, Marni delivers. The pants are baggy and touch the floor, and the sleeves fall past the model's long arms. This collection draws prints from Allegro, the 1976 animated film by Bruno Bozzett, and pairs them with tattered hems and oversized bouclé coats, fustian jackets, and trousers. Animalistic and pansexual psychedelia takes over on shirts, parkas and anorak jackets, drawing a rebellious bestiary. The collection was worn by models on both ends of the gender spectrum, proving that every look can work for anyone. Mesh sweaters, multiplication lines, and then pajamas and foulard shirts close the show in a classic but sensualized manner. Overall, the collection successfully ties together unexpected pairings in terms of prints and layers, and proves once and for all that fashion knows no gender.

Neil Barrett Brought Back the American Psycho Trench

As he celebrated the 20th anniversary of his brand, Neil Barett's “Born In Britain” Collection offered up a punk take on the tailored style. Trench coats took on a whole new look—some in leather, others in a translucent polyurethane, perfect for those rainy English days! The entire collection felt urban and modern, and the footwear played off of classic silhouettes like the one-star sneaker and combat boot, each getting a new and edgy makeover. We saw fur and plaid and leather and animal print—you can't get more punk than that!

Ermenegildo Zegna Took Us to The Future

A delicate formality was outlined at the Ermenegildo Zegna show, which blended with the industrial rhythm of the asphalt jungle. This season seemed to be all about hybrids for the designer; jackets took their pockets from outerwear; the shirts became jackets with squared and functional volumes; the blousons showed off more formal necklines layered underneath; cargo pants assumed a sartorial attitude, as well as the quilted down jackets that were handmade in the bespoke atelier of Via Bigli. The silhouettes were fluid, simple, defined. The coats, long or short, were spectacular and voluminous, with innovative bomber jackets, quilted parkas with detachable collars and knitted coats; the jackets had hidden closures and geometric pockets. The looks were completed by boots with front zippers and compact soles as well as chunkier, multi-material sneakers. The collection felt ahead of its time in a futuristic, time-traveler kind of way.

During Men’s Fashion Week, artist @silviacalderoni from @motus_enddna—an independent Italian theatre company—performed her work ‘MDLSX’ at the Gucci Hub in Milan. Combining autobiographical narrative and literary references, the performance sought to escape from every possible categorization. #AlessandroMichele#mmfw

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