Sculpture meets innovation in Paul Andrew&rsquo;s first collection for Sergio Rossi, where a carbon fiber wedge and deadstock-driven collaborations redefine modern luxury.

Paul Andrew&rsquo;s debut Milan Fashion Week presentation for Sergio Rossi featured the first shoe made by a sports car manufacturer. Called the Sinuous, the seductively curved carbon fiber wedge, inspired by a semi-abstract sculpture titled &ldquo;Nudo Femminile&rdquo; by the midcentury Italian artist Alberto Viani, is impossibly light. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s gone through all of these factory tests to make sure that you can walk on it and that the balance is perfect,&rdquo; Andrew says. &ldquo;Even the showroom models who were on their feet all day told me that this is the most comfortable shoe in the collection&mdash;and we have many flats and low heels.&rdquo; That unlikely combination of art and technology feels very Paul Andrew; sculptural metal heels with a glossy galvanized chrome finish were a signature of the Ferragamo alum&rsquo;s eponymous New York shoe label. But he&rsquo;s quick to point out that the ergonomic shape and advanced material innovation&mdash;carbon fiber is significantly lighter than metal&mdash;is all Sergio Rossi. "Sergio was so ahead of his time, and my goal is to reengage that spirit of pushing boundaries,&rdquo; Andrew says. He based his design on a carbon fiber insole prototype from the 1990s that he found in the label&rsquo;s San Mauro Pascoli archives.

Sustainability and upcycling have always been important to Andrew, so he asked his friends&mdash;and arguably two of the most-talked-about rising talents&mdash;Duran Lantink and Ellen Hodakova Larsson to collaborate on footwear for their Paris Fashion Week shows using a trove of deadstock leather and skins. Andrew covered the Sinuous and two styles of boots, the over-the-knee Avenue boot and Avenue Chelsea boot, in deadstock python and zebra-calf hair for Duran Lantink and adapted his Vixen mule, which sits on a triangular last, to create high-heeled boots and brogues in vachetta calfskin and kidskin for Hodakova. &ldquo;It was definitely a learning curve, but the results are miraculous,&rdquo; Andrew says.

Duran Lantink Fall/Winter 2025. Photography courtesy of Duran Lantink.

Paul Andrew Takes the Wheels at Sergio Rossi 

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Paul Andrew Takes the Wheels at Sergio Rossi

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