From Issey Miyake's simple "piece of cloth," a new idea of ​​formality takes shape: unconventional and essential, guided by an authentic, genuine intention and unrestrained creativity.

The IM MEN Fall/Winter 2026&ndash;2027 show took place in a setting that already suggests reflection on time and transformation: the crypt of the Coll&egrave;ge des Bernardins, a 13th-century building in the heart of Paris&rsquo;s 5th arrondissement. Here, accompanied by Ryuchi Sakamoto&rsquo;s &ldquo;parolibre&rdquo; symphony, the collection&mdash;titled &ldquo;Formless Form&rdquo;&mdash;took shape as a silent investigation into the contemporary meaning of formality. Led by Sen Kawahara, Yuki Itakura, and Nobutaka Kobayashi, the IM MEN design team began with a seemingly simple question: &ldquo;Can a simple piece of fabric express an intention, an attitude, even a sense of discipline?&rdquo; The answer is never openly stated, but instead constructed through a series of garments that eschew predefined silhouettes, allowing the material itself to guide the form.
The concept of &ldquo;a piece of cloth&rdquo; becomes the founding principle of the entire collection&mdash;not as a theoretical exercise, but as a concrete method. Volumes are not imposed; they emerge from the behavior of the fabric as it contracts, expands, and overlaps. This is evident in the CLAY series, where a seemingly flat surface becomes sculptural thanks to a process that combines rigid and ribbed elements, reacting to heat and adapting naturally to the body. On the runway, this philosophy translates into a wardrobe that rejects the idea of clothing as armor. Cotton jumpsuits, minimal-cut boleros, trench coats with integrated capes, and cocooning coats cut on the bias are all defined by loose, flowing tailoring, free of rigidity. Even the soft, white puffer jackets take on a utilitarian dimension&mdash;far from ostentation and closer to the idea of everyday protection.

The color palette complements the show's narrative. Neutrals dominate at the beginning, as if to eliminate all distractions. Then, as the show progresses and the lighting changes over the venue, deep blues, vibrant yellows, delicate pinks, reds, and purples emerge, recalling the colors of the sky from dawn to dusk. This progression suggests a sense of rebirth, of rediscovered serenity, rather than a simple color shift. The DAWN selection conveys this feeling, with pieces cut and sewn individually with clean lines that offer endless styling possibilities. Similarly, OVERLAP features garments that become hybrids: garments that don't simply dress, but invite the wearer to actively participate in their construction, like a coat crafted from a single piece of fabric that can transform into a poncho, altering the silhouette simply by adjusting the cuffs and shoulder straps.

Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2026 Men's Collection. Getty Images.

In the IM MEN Fall/Winter 2026 collection, craftsmanship remains central, without being self-referential. Thanks to techniques such as KASURI , a traditional Japanese weaving technique, formalwear is reinterpreted, giving life to asymmetrical blousons and trousers with a soft and surprisingly light drape. The IM MEN design team's innovative techniques also emerge in GRADATION WOOL, which explores color as an emotional experience, thanks to a fabric-dyeing process that makes each piece unique, while details such as side zips and statement belts introduce a discreet, never-rigid formality. The runway also features padded outerwear with a sculptural silhouette, starring in the RAFT series, featuring coats and jackets insulated with recycled polyester cord padding. This innovation guarantees warmth comparable to down, leveraging volumes designed to trap air and maximize thermal insulation. Finally, SELVEDGE WOOL focuses on a premium, stretchy wool produced exclusively in Bishu, Japan. Crafted from a foldable square, the garments reveal a fluid, draped silhouette when worn, while the &ldquo;IM MEN&rdquo; lettering woven along the selvedge becomes the fabric's signature element.

The models parade with accessories from the LEATHER PLEATS line, natural leather bags in which large structured pleats interact with soft and fluid surfaces; others wear TO GO accessories that replicate leather take-away coffee cups, demonstrating how changing the material can transform the perception of form without altering its function. At a time when men's fashion often oscillates between spectacle and nostalgia, IM MEN proposes a concrete and thoughtful approach, silent yet radical in its understanding of the freedom of dress. FORMLESS FORM isn't a rejection of formality, but a redefinition that doesn't impose, but listens to the individual. It doesn't constrain, but accompanies.

Issey Miyake Men's Fall/Winter 2026: Formless Form

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