At Milan Fashion Week, Maryll Rogge works on the idea of ​​transformation through cuts, openings, and constructions that make visible what normally remains hidden. &nbsp;

Fashion, for Maryll Rogge, seems to begin the moment something is subtracted. In her second collection for Marni, the Belgian designer isn't looking for a new grammar, but rather a way to make existing ones legible, opening them up, dissecting them, bringing their structures to the surface. Spring/Summer 2027&nbsp;proceeds by successive revelations: exposed linings, pronounced seams, interrupted surfaces, and openings that transform the interior into part of the image.
It's an exercise in construction that coincides with its opposite. Clothes seem to be driven by a force that unravels them, only to reassemble them in a less predictable form. Tops leave the back bare, shoes break their surface to reveal skin, and transparency becomes a means of composition rather than seduction. Even lingerie changes status: the profile of a bra, normally relegated to the private sphere, is incorporated into the dress and takes on the function of an architectural line.

Rogge extends this principle to accessories as well. The Modernista is carved, while the Trunkette loses some of its mass to become lighter. An embroidery is extracted from one garment and transferred to another, like a found object that changes meaning as it changes context. Buttons and buttonholes, enlarged to the point of almost becoming sculptural elements, cease to be functional details and become independent signs.
The result is anything but an austere collection. The tension between rigor and playfulness is precisely what makes it fresh. Double duchesse silk gabardine, wool, leather, sequins, and knitwear coexist in deliberately irregular combinations; sportswear enters tailoring, while industrial details like triple stitching are magnified to the point of becoming a visual signature.

Even the color avoids a clear hierarchy. Blondes, brunettes, blacks, and grays create an almost superficial palette, closer to the diversity of people than to an abstract idea of ​​the season. This is where the collection finds its most interesting point. Not in the now familiar idea of ​​deconstructing the garment, but in the attempt to restore a human dimension to the construction. Each piece seems to retain the traces of its maker and, above all, suggest the identity of its wearer.
For Marni, change doesn't mean a spectacular break. The action consists of peeling back layers, exposing seams, recovering fragments, and allowing the garment to demonstrate its own functioning. A fashion that looks within to understand how to continue to change.

Marni Spring/Summer 2027. Courtesy of Marni.

Marni Explores Transformation for Spring/Summer 2027

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Marni Explores Transformation for Spring/Summer 2027

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