Shayne Oliver's latest lineup is the next chapter of Hood by Air's Prologue era.

Following the debut of its <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/hood-by-air-returns-naomi-campbell-the-prologue-shayne-oliver" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Naomi Campbell-fronted Prologue: Mother collection</a> last month, Hood by Air is back with a fresh selection of streetwear. The Veteran collection establishes the revived label&rsquo;s new dress code, with graphic tees, sweatshirts, and other utilitarian-influenced pieces.&nbsp;
Last year, designer <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2021/03/03/style/shayne-oliver-hood-by-air.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Shayne Oliver announced</a> that Hood by Air would relaunch after going silent, with no activity from the brand, since 2017. The new era at the New York-based label is defined by its return to ready-to-wear, in addition to other projects like Museum (an archive of Hood by Air&rsquo;s original collections, open to be reimagined by a designer-in-residence) and Anonymous Club (a platform for collaborations between the brand and other creatives).

The Veteran collection is a continuation of the Prologue era. The concept behind the clothes points towards surveillance, with a t-shirt and sweatshirt printed with the picture of security cameras, and another with the image of a police badge. Besides the collection&rsquo;s title, other military references are seen in cargo pants and the solid blue color accompanied by neutral tones. On pants, a bullseye outlines the crotch.

Juxtaposing these masculine details, the models don pointed-toe, heeled shoes. In the past, Oliver's subversive approach to design often featured gender-bending elements, like men wearing skirts or bodysuits on the runway. Now, going from the Prologue: Mother collection, which Campbell was the sole model for, to the Prologue: Berlin campaign, which concealed models' faces and gender completely, to this decidedly maculine Veteran collection, the designer underscores his genderless perspective.&nbsp;
Hood by Air's Veteran collection is now available <a href="https://hoodbyair.world/collections/veteran" target="_blank" rel="noopener">online</a>. It is the second of three installments (the first was Mother), and a Merch collection will come at a later date.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Photos: Lengua for Hood by Air.

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