Looking for ways to embrace the statement shoe in your own rotation? Here’s how.

Few shoes have been declared “over” as many times as the Tabi. Maison Margiela’s unmistakable split-toe silhouette has spent years teetering between cult fashion object and mainstream phenomenon, becoming increasingly recognizable far beyond the fashion crowd that once treated the shoe like an insider signifier. And yet, despite every think piece, social media debate, and prediction that Tabi fatigue has finally arrived, the shoes refuse to disappear.
If anything, they’ve only multiplied. What was once most closely associated with Margiela’s heeled boot now appears in ballet flats, loafers, sneakers, Mary Janes, and countless interpretations beyond the house itself. On red carpets and city sidewalks alike, the once-strange split toe has become surprisingly commonplace. But ubiquity hasn’t necessarily stripped the Tabi of its appeal.
“I think Tabis will always be a classic because once you look past the split-toe, they’re pretty much like any of your own classic ballet flats,” editor and fashion enthusiast Kristina Ang tells L’OFFICIEL. “I also think the colorways that the Tabis come in also make them a timeless shoe that fashion lovers will always want to come back to. Especially Margiela, who offer a great curation of neutral shades that are truly timeless.”

There’s also a more practical reason devotees keep coming back to the divisive shoe: comfort. Ang jokes that years spent working in fashion and squeezing her feet into painfully pointy heels have left her with bunions, but says there’s something about the Tabi’s construction that makes them surprisingly comfortable.
“And look, I’m no podiatrist, but there’s something about the way Tabis separate your toes that actually makes them surprisingly comfortable to wear,” Ang says. “I’ve used that reasoning many times in the past few years to justify the expansion of my Margiela Tabi collection, I can assure you that much.”
Nearly four decades after Martin Margiela first sent them down a Paris runway—and centuries after their Japanese predecessor first appeared—the question is no longer whether Tabis are still cool. It’s why fashion can’t seem to quit them.
Growing up in Malaysia, fashion influencer Hamaji Neo was aware of a variety of East Asian cultures. However, it wasn’t until his girlfriend taught him that Tabis originated in Japan that he became aware of the iconic Maison Margiela version. Neo says he found it interesting that different cultures take from history and that Margiela implemented the style to their specific vision.

Photography courtesy of Instagram/@Hamajineo.

“I found some cheaper brands offering really good quality Tabis and decided to give them a try, absolutely fell in love with them,” he tells L'OFFICIEL. “Not only because of how stylish they looked, but they genuinely felt comfortable. The way the toes grip your feet makes it feel really comfortable and easy to wear for long periods of time.”
Not only has Neo become someone who continues to rock the controversial shoe, but he is one of many players who have furthered the Tabis’ impact on fashion as we know it. In fact, according to a May 2026 study, the style’s market size is set to grow from $1.27 billion in 2026 to a staggering $2.38 billion by 2034.
From its 15th-century Japanese roots to its debut on Martin Margiela’s 1988 catwalk, the Tabi has attracted a cult following and a group of haters. Regardless of how you feel about the shoe, its split toe promotes balance, stability, and comfort while taking shape in leather, canvas, and suede, amongst other materials.

Image courtesy of the L'OFFICIEL Paris archives.

Originating as cotton socks, the Tabi were the perfect fit for thonged sandals, specifically zori and geta, that were common amongst the Japanese upper class. When trading with China occurred, the accessory became widespread, with colors like purple and gold for the elite while commoners sported blue. Eventually, in the 1990s, the Tabi sock began to include rubber soles for outdoor activities, which were known as jika-tabi, Japanese worker shoes that are still worn today.
Sure, brands like Nike, Vetements, and Steve Madden have released versions of the Tabi that try to capture the appeal of the hooved footwear. But Margiela’s edition has become not just a highly sought-after fashion piece, but a signature that challenged what shoes could be in the space. After a trip to Japan, Martin Margiela wanted to produce a shoe that mimicked a bare foot resting on a heel. Even with owning his own line of footwear and working for Jean Paul Gaultier, the designer had trouble finding a cobbler that was willing to make the split-toe shoe. Until Martin Margiela met with Italian craftsman Mr. Zagato over dinner, in which the shoemaker’s eyes brightened.
As the first Margiela kicked off the show, she rocked no shirt, ribbons on her cuffs, and a pair of Tabis down the runway. Nude-toned mesh, chiffon veils, and even being barefoot were key to the collection before one of fashion’s greatest moments happened. For the finale, models rocked white lab coats (like the ones Margiela team members wore) and shoes dipped in red paint that left a strange marking on the catwalk. As the designer said in an interview, “I thought the audience should notice the new footwear. And what would be more evident than its footprint?”

Japan History 19th Century featuring Tabi Socks. Photo: Getty Images.

Japan 20th Century Tabi sock and shoe. Photo: Getty Images.

But as the Tabi moved from an avant-garde runway statement to one of fashion’s most recognizable shoes, its growing popularity inevitably brought backlash with it. The silhouette has been called everything from ugly to overdone, with its move into the mainstream prompting recurring declarations that the Tabi has finally lost its cool. Yet the very shoe that seems to inspire a new round of fatigue every few years continues to appear on runways, red carpets, and sidewalks—and its most devoted wearers aren’t ready to give it up.
“Tabis are here to stay, and I believe the reason why fashion can’t seem to quit them is because the people who actually enjoy wearing them, such as myself, just enjoy wearing them,” he said. “Of course, they are a very nice fashion statement, but there are people who genuinely enjoy wearing them, such as myself.”
Ang similarly believes the Tabi is enough of a statement on its own that keeping the rest of an outfit simple can actually make the shoe feel fresher.
“I definitely think Tabis will still always be the star of the outfit,” Ang says. “That’s why I feel so confident in stepping out in a white T-shirt, jeans, a belt, and a pair of Tabis because I feel like that in itself is a look. I actually think it’s possible to overstyle Tabis because they’re such a statement piece.”

When it comes to the conversation of continuing the Tabis legacy, one may feel that it is difficult to dress up or down. In Neo’s opinion, he thinks the opposite. “I believe Tabis should just be worn with anything; they are footwear first and foremost,” Neo said. “I don’t believe there is a ‘way’ to style Tabis.”
However, Neo said that if he had to recommend a styling option, minimalistic is the way to go. Similar to Japanese fashion styles widely known, black, oversized non-statement pieces can be a great way to ease into Tabis becoming a part of the rotation naturally without drawing too much attention. But we know that a select few would want to step out of their comfort zone with the historic shoe.
For those who worry that the Tabi has become too ubiquitous, Ang suggests using the sheer number of iterations now available to make the shoe feel more personal.
“I think playing around with color and material can be fun when you’re trying to find your own personal style where Tabis are concerned,” Ang says. “There are so many variations now that you can buy—Tabis with polka dots, jelly Tabis, butter yellow and purple Tabis. The possibilities are endless and I think the more unique your Tabis are, the less chance that you’re going to find someone with the same one who is styling it the same way as you.”
As demonstrated in Martin Margiela’s 1988 show, pops of color, neutral tones, and bold accessories can be amplified with Tabis. If you are having trouble visualizing your future potential, think of Michael B. Jordan and Pedro Pascal on the red carpet, Bad Bunny and Adrien Brody at the 2024 Met Gala, or Nick Jonas and Jonathan Bailey becoming avid wearers of them. Not a fan of the boot or loafer styles? A sneaker could be an easier approach to trying out the Tabi in a more casual, yet comfortable way. To be more precise, the options for Tabis are endless.

The Tabi’s growing presence in menswear has only expanded the shoe’s reach. As men’s fashion has become increasingly experimental, the split-toe silhouette offers an opportunity to move beyond the expected sneaker, loafer, or dress shoe without committing to an entirely avant-garde look. Its appearance on everyone from Bad Bunny and Michael B. Jordan to Pedro Pascal and Jonathan Bailey also proves there isn’t one type of man—or one type of personal style—that the Tabi belongs to.
More importantly, men embracing a shoe with such an unconventional silhouette feels representative of a larger shift in menswear itself. The rules around what constitutes a “men’s shoe” have loosened considerably, leaving more room for experimentation with shape, proportion, color, and even historically divisive styles. If anything, seeing more men embrace the Tabi only further proves the shoe’s ability to transcend the niche fashion audience it was once associated with.
“Tabis are a way for me to express myself. But most importantly, as someone who came into fashion late, I want to understand why different fashion pieces have come about before becoming a staple piece,” Neo concluded. “I wish to understand why clothes are the way they are, and wearing Tabis gives me some insight into why they were designed the way they were.”

Are Tabis Still Cool? The Case for Making Them Your Own

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