Maison Margiela’s cult-favorite Replica fragrances get a little sibling: this morning, timed to the brand’s Spring-Summer 2019 show, Maison Margiela announced the release of Mutiny. The Eau de Parfum became a major sensory (and marketing) note of the collection presentation, as the had spritzed the tuberose concoction around the show’s venue beforehand.
As Creative Director John Galliano told British Vogue, he drew on the past year’s global upheaval for the fragrance’s title and said disorder and unrest for the collection, as well. Staying true to Margiela’s signature deconstructed approach to glamour, Galliano ripped hems and left behind original seam stitches on sheaths of fabric to evoke an unfinished blazer or coat.
Equally rule-breaking was Galliano’s approach to gender, after putting a male model in a pleated shirt-dress and Hanne Gaby Odiele in a wide-lapel suit and white loafers. Some tops, coats, and capes had armholes, some restricted their wearer to fingertips at their thighs. Galliano’s message for Spring was just as visual as olfactory: one finds freedom after breaking hindering norms and social constructs; only through mutiny can one be free.