How Maria Grazia Chiuri Changed the Narrative at Dior
The Italian designer became creative director of Dior in 2016 and revolutionized the French fashion house with these key runway moments.
The fashion industry is arguably one of the most competitive in the world. It's a fast-paced operation, and the never-ending demand for innovative craftsmanship creates a grueling environment for designers to pave their own path and make their voices stand out amongst all the noise of this prestigious and privileged world. Maria Grazia Chiuri is a rare visionary in the modern fashion scene who hasn't only found her voice among the many in this industry but remade and remolded it through her gaze.
Since becoming the creative director of Dior in 2016, Chiuri has revolutionized the French maison with her passion for designing apparel that people covet but that also tells a values-driven story that aims to address the societal issues impacting the world and challenges the status quo. She's found the equilibrium between intellectualism and practicality and mastered it through her designs. Rather than fashion overshadowing her, Chiuri has transcended fashion and has received acclaim and recognition from critics like Vanessa Friedman, who described the Italian designer as "the most subversively political, even radical, designer in charge of a big French fashion brand."
Chiuri has carved out a space for femininity, empowerment, and artistry. She changed the narrative, not just at Dior, but influenced fashion in general, with her proudly proclaimed female gaze. The creative director is known for her artistic collaborations for collections and runway shows. She's worked with artists like Claire Fontaine, Judy Chicago, Mickalene Thomas, and Berthe Morisot to bring socially conscious statements to the forefront while empowering female artisans.
While Chiuri has been at the helm at Dior, she's brought cultural and artistic moments to the runway. Some of the most significant and stand-out shows include Dior's Spring/Summer 2020 Haute Couture show, where she enlisted the help of Judy Chicago for the goddess-like set design, which featured "The Female Divine" structure; the Dior Menswear Pre-Fall 2023 show in Egypt, with the Pyramids of Giza as the backdrop; and Dior's Fall/Winter 2023 show in Mumbai, India, another historic event for the brand.
Her tenure at Dior has been historic and innovative. With each show and collection, Chiuri reaffirms her commitment to feminism, activism, and artistry. Keep scrolling to see some of the designer's most memorable moments at Dior.
“We Should All Be Feminists" T-Shirt (Spring/Summer 2017)
Maria Grazia Chiuri's debut collection for Dior was the talk of the town, with the designer making a bold political statement with the iconic "We Should All Be Feminists" T-shirt. She was inspired by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie's Ted talk, and it was the first of many viral moments to come. This simple white T-shirt set the tone for what the industry can expect from Chiuri and her goal for Dior to join the political and cultural discourse.
J’adior Slingback Pumps (Debut in Spring 2017)
The "We Should All Be Feminists" T-shirt wasn't the viral sensation at her debut show. The J'adior Slingback Pumps also made their debut and became an instant staple piece for Dior. The pumps feature a pointed-toe silhouette with a ribbon strap embroidered with "J-adior." The sleek heel has the elegance of the brand while also incorporating Chiuri's contemporary flair.
Tarot-Inspired Gowns (Spring/Summer 2018 Haute Couture)
The Italian designer paid homage to Christian Dior through tarot-inspired gowns featured in the Spring/Summer 2018 collection. Dior was known to have a fascination with the mythical and often incorporated mystical elements in his designs, so Chiuri channeled Dior in her reimagined designs, which featured intricate tarot card embroidery.
The Book Tote (Spring/Summer 2018)
Fashion enthusiasts have Chiuri to thank for the Book Tote, a stylish yet functional accessory. Chiuri is an avid reader, so this bag shouldn't come as a surprise. The bag features elaborate embroidery and monograms, which are customizable. It functions as an everyday bag or a travel bag with a structured, oversized silhouette.
The Revival of the Saddle Bag (Fall/Winter 2018)
Anyone knowledgeable in fashion knows about Dior's Saddle Bag and its origins. The bag was originally designed by John Galliano in 1999, and in 2018, Chiuri reinterpreted the bag under her creative vision. The Saddle Bag made its triumphant return in the Fall/Winter 2018 collection with bold patterns and monograms while maintaining its curved shape and shoulder strap. The bag's comeback had everyone coveting it for their wardrobe.
Circus-Themed Couture (Spring/Summer 2019 Haute Couture)
The Dior Spring/Summer 2019 Haute Couture presentation was a whimsical affair, with the collection taking inspiration from the extravagance of the circus. The models made their way down the runway in harlequin-themed ensembles, exaggerated tulle dresses, and dramatic headpieces. The show itself was a theatrical performance with live acrobatic numbers.
Greek Goddess Gowns (Cruise 2022)
The innovative designer was inspired by Ancient Greece for the Dior Cruise 2022 collection. The collection featured draped gowns designed with white and metallic hues reminiscent of Greek goddesses. The sculptural pieces demonstrated Chiuri's ability to take classic silhouettes and reinterpret them with a contemporary point of view.
"Miss Dior" Dress (Fall/Winter 2023)
Chiuri partnered with Natalie Portman for the "Miss Dior" campaign and designed a stunning floral-embroidered gown for the actor that generated a significant amount of buzz. The romantic gown elevated the campaign with its embellished delicate blooms and soft tulle. This campaign embraced femininity with all its softness and serves as another reminder of what Chiuri represents as a designer and how she perceives women and their multifaceted qualities.
Futuristic Designs (Fall/Winter 2024)
The Dior Fall/Winter 2024 show was Chiuri announcing to the fashion industry that she's a multifaceted designer who's capable of reinventing herself. This show indicated a shift from her traditional romantic approach to designing as she opted for sharper tailoring and structured lining. There's a futuristic quality to the collection, and she, once again, proves she's capable of evolving to reflect modernity.
