The Best New Products in Spring 2018
Beauty

Best in Show: Spring Beauty's Finest

Ah, spring. How we’ve longed for your days in color, your Pagan celebrations, and the fantastic explosion of beauty launches.
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"Tomorrow, there'll be a line," B.J. Carretta, Chief Marketing Officer of the company, tells me as we sit outside of the West Hollywood location around 4PM on a Friday. Not only is it Presidents' Day weekend, but it's NBA All-Star weekend, and this year it's taking place in LA. We've already seen a number of people come in and out of the store, which is busy but not suffocatingly packed, the way you'd imagine a toy store just before Christmas. Not uncomfortable, but notable. The customers all seem to range in age and experience. A group of young guys in the corner talk to an employee, clearly stocking up before they go home to watch basketball. An older couple who seem to have grabbed what they wanted check out at the counter. MedMen's customer base is unquestionably diverse.

 

This is no accident. Founded by two medical dispensary owners, the company's goal is to attract everyone—not just your average weed-smoker. Their first major campaign is called "Faces," and comes in the form of billboards, shirts, and photos that all follow the general format of "It's legal." For example, "Heal. It's legal." or "Relax. It's legal." None feature cannabis imagery, just the implication is enough to get the message across.

 

Although such a wide-spread campaign may be off-putting for some die-hard stoners, Carretta isn't concerned. "As things grow, the industries evolve...People like dabs, people like flower. We have it, come get it. There's no difference. But in order to grow the space, we also have to go after the chardonnay mom, and the lawyer, and the doctor." Although MedMen already has their core base laid out for them, the intent behind their advertising is to destigmatize the plant. "I actually like it," Carretta says. "There's really no limit." They even intend to give back to the community, getting involved with things like legal reform programs for those who were arrested for minor cannabis offenses.

 

If you didn't know what they were selling, the dispensary itself would be hard to distinguish from any other store, which is how it's garnered a reputation as "the Apple store of weed." Small capsules with included magnifying glasses allow you to view and smell cannabis buds without touching them. Edibles sit on shelves or in a refrigerator depending on the product. Concentrates sit under glass cases. Most importantly, customer service representatives are attentive to the point of almost being doting, there to answer every question you may think to ask. “It’s gonna be a feel game for most people,” Carretta tells me, which makes these red-shirted staff so important. “There’s no roadmap, and there’s no research.”

 

MedMen has big plans for the future, and research is a part of it. They intend on being one of the first, if not the first, mass quantity “seed to sale” companies on the market. Because of this, they’ll be able to monitor every aspect of the growth process, tailoring their products to what the consumer wants. “There shouldn’t be any hidden secrets here,” he says when talking about the brand’s plan to showcase their growth process. The company intends to be fully open about what is (or isn’t) going into their products, and provide research to consumers and industry along the way. “You’re going to see the big pharmaceutical companies try to come in, that’s fine, let them try to come in,” he clarifies, “This is a different thing….Everyone was doing it, now they can do it publicly. It should start a new narrative.”

 

For those who never saw the old model of cannabis legalization, who never walked into the rooms with barred windows, this may seem normal, not like a new narrative. Soon, it will be normal, the dark days of medical marijuana programs and stigmatized use forgotten. MedMen is at the forefront of a movement promoting acceptance. But when I walked into the storefront for the first time, with floor-to-ceiling glass windows and products on shelves, I felt something other than acceptance. For people like me, having a place like MedMen doesn’t just represent the mainstreaming of cannabis culture. It represents hope.

How and where is Commodity produced?

AH Our perfumers originate from France, Mexico, the U.S., and some from Eastern Europe. We work with multiple fragrance houses [and] then we assemble it. We’ve got a fill plant just outside of Paris and one just outside of New York. Going forward all new candles will be made in the South of France. The ingredients are globally sourced, like the Venezuelan tonka bean [we use in] Tonka by Guillaume Flavigny. We source that from a co-op in Venezuela which is completely sustainable: for every one they pick they plant two more.  The farmers we work with, are under a co-op, so they’re all paid fairly.

 

With sourcing, it’s very hard to decide for yourself what is and isn’t ethical. How do you draw those lines with Commodity?

AH Well, I don’t think there’s any line to be drawn. Something is either ethical or it is not. So everything about the brand and its ethos is authenticity and transparency. Our products are vegan. We will not participate in any animal testing. There are no animal byproducts in any Commodity products. None of our products or their ingredients have been tested on animals. We have not paid anyone else to do it either, nor will we. We create our products to EU standards which are 100x more stringent than US standards.

 

For example, our Commodity Leather fragrance, bath bar and candle is what we call New Leather because there is no distillation from any animal hide in that, but people love the smell of leather, so it's synthetic. The same can be said of our new Commodity Musc Absolu coming end of year. In a time where everyone seems to be touting naturals, ethically sourcing often means leaning away from naturals so you are not decimating crops or using animal byproducts. In terms of the ethically sourcing, that’s why you don't cut corners on costs and you work with good ingredient and formulation partners like we have today. We are ensuring that there is not a situation where “this farmer is saying that they’re sustainable so we will take his word.” Instead, there’s a full co-op built around that ingredient, so that it is sustainably sourced and the farmers are paid fairly and that there is no corruption in that process. So that’s what we work within Venezuela, and in Haiti too. Such a framework takes our partner fragrance houses a great deal of work and investment and it is why today, it is not always possible to have every ingredient sustainably sourced. It is also a key reason why Commodity is not ever going be your lowest priced option. We are on the right path and will increase our sustainable sourcing whenever possible.


 

We also realize that, thankfully, consumers have got every blogger in the world serving as a watchdog out there looking at all of these brands and dissecting their ingredient panels, and that’s a good thing. In 2018, everything has got to be transparent and I think that you’ll find that with Commodity. We have more work to do on that front in terms of disclosures, but I am committed to making that happen.

Jacket John Lawrence Sullivan, Shirt Replika, Pants Balenciaga, Sunglasses Giorgio Armani, Belt Posers Hollywood

calvin harris

CREDITS

Makeup Risako Matsushita / See Management

Hair Kiyo Igarashi

Nails Narina Chan / The Industry MGMT using Smith & Cult

Model Olamide Ogundele / IMG Models

Retoucher Zhiqiang Wang

Styling Assistants Beatrice Goudet, Laura Messner, Ashley Weber

Special thanks to Sherri Cai

 

View the full editorial in L'Officiel Singapore's August 2018 issue, available now on newsstands and on Magzter. To subscribe, click here.

El Fenn Riad

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