31 Rue Cambon, Paris—if you're at all oriented with the house of Chanel, chances are you're familiar with this address and its chic history. The historic atelier of Coco Chanel was the starting point for Chanel Métiers d'Art 2019/20, which marked Virginie Viard's first time designing this special annual collection. After exploring French-girl je ne sais quoi on a Parisian rooftop set for Spring 2020, the artistic director's location of choice—and collection—continued to explore her new vision through the codes of the house and its founder, who spent many of her industry-changing days in the iconic mirrored hall and staircase that now were recreated in the Grand Palais.
The collection explored various iconic Chanel motifs through 71 looks showcased on today's top models, who sinuously descended from the charming staircase to reach the beige-carpeted runway under the large burnished crystal chandeliers. Afront the eyes of elite guests including Penélope Cruz, Kristen Stewart, Marion Cotillard, Lily-Rose Depp, and Yara Shahidi, top models including Gigi Hadid, Vittoria Ceretti, and Kaia Gerber embodied refined Mademoiselles mediating between Coco's groundbreaking legacy, Karl Lagerfeld's lasting influence, and Viard's modern vision.
Above all, the show was a celebration of the 25 métiers d'art that the house of Chanel brings together and keeps close to ensure an entirely French savoir-faire. Whether it's the Lesage embroidery or the Massaro footwear, the Lemarié plumage or the Lognon pleats, together the team has created singular pieces that craft an undeniable Parisian attitude.
From the show's start to the closing look, worn by house muse Ceretti, a crescendo of elegance comprising the cornerstones of the Chanel universe permeated the collection. Whether it's the black night coat, embroidered with gold ramage at the waist, or the ending bolero jacket, covered with hand-made camellias of fabric, iconic house codes were everywhere. Fondant-colored bouclé, men's tailoring, a mix of black and white with delicately glam metallics, and a stream of cascading chains and pearls made for a collection vaguely alluding to the 1970s nostalgia that's been sweeping fashion as of late. Lightly androgynous, it created a modern and nonconformist portrait of Mademoiselle Coco.
See all the looks from Chanel Métiers d'Art 2019/20 below.