Henry Zankov kicked off New York Fashion Week with his debut collection for the brand.

After almost a decade of presentations, retail launches, and immersive archival events, Diane von Furstenberg has returned to New York Fashion Week. Instead of the Belgian fashion icon taking charge of the show, Russian-born American designer Henry Zankov presented his debut collection on Thursday morning.
Not only is he the brand's first creative director outside the founder, but he has had deep ties to DVF since joining as a knitwear designer in 2014. Four stellar years later, Zankov left the brand to launch his own label, Zankov. But it wouldn't be long before he returned to the brand to create a capsule released in September 2025.
"I have always been surrounded and inspired by strong women, and Diane is the ultimate embodiment of that," the designer said back in May during the announcement of his appointment. "The DVF woman is a rebel — confident, curious, and independent. It is an honor to build on Diane's extraordinary legacy and carry the brand into the future."
Almost four months later, the big day finally arrived. On the New York Fashion Week calendar, the show's venue was nestled atop The High Line, which is conveniently close to the brand's flagship store and design studio. Right before you know it, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection commenced.
Brazilian model Paula Soares bolted on the runway while wearing a blue and yellow leopard-print collared long-sleeved dress. Although some would say the plunging V-neckline is perfect for a necklace or choker, all the DVF woman needs is a pair of snake-print high heels. To top off the look, a black waterline, neutral-toned eyeshadow, and a discreet lip allow for a balance of bold and confident.

Diane von Furstenberg Spring/Summer 2027. Getty Images.

Retro-esque business casual, color-blocked ensembles, and distinct prints paired well with tight-fitting knitwear, thin, flowy belts, and the classic sky-high block heel. But if there was one thing that reigned throughout the collection, it was obviously the way the clothes moved on each model. "Diane always told me it was all about 'body language,'" Zankov said in the show notes. "What I learned from her was how to work with a body: how clothes move, how they reveal." These reminders paid off during the show.
Whether it was open jackets that revealed maximalist works of art or monochromatic pieces that fell to the floor, women's fashion choices contribute to their distinct movements. These two go hand in hand, and Zankov knows the power of honoring that relationship. Adding to the mix, lead hairstylist Mustafa Yanaz presented three key looks with the help of Bumble and bumble: Soft natural curls, the well-loved side part, and high-glam capacious spirals.
In the latter half of the collection, the '80s party girl got a polished touch that only contributed to her movement. Silk, sheer, and rainbow-forward fabrics took over pants, tops, and the iconic wrap dress von Fustenberg created in 1974. British model Layla Etengan closed the show in a daring black halter dress featuring blue, purple, green, and orange shapes, with red pumps to top it off.
Once the finale had finished, Zankov walked out to the cheerful crowd before speed-walking to von Fustenberg. The pair embraced in a hug, smiled at one another, and parted as the show had wrapped up. Those who watched and appreciated the looks by recording on their phones were friends of DVF, which included von Fustenberg herself, Nicky Hilton Rothschild, Pat Cleveland, Olive Jade, Madeline Brewer, Rainey Qualley, Fabiola Beracasa Beckman, Charlotte Lawrence, Derek Blasberg, Camila Alves McConaughey, Lola Clark, Wendi Murdoch, Kaitlan Collins, and Lynn Yaeger, amongst others.
Across the 37 looks, Zankov brought a modern edge to brand staples. The clear passing of the torch was not only sweet, but also signaled the official start of a new chapter for DVF. With this collection, Zankov showed the industry that in a world full of minimalism, staying in your own multicolored lane is timeless. For a legacy brand like DVF, the 45-year-old designer started this era with a strong bang.

Diane von Furstenberg Is Back and Brighter Than Ever For Spring/Summer 2027

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