The ground floor of the Fondazione Prada, in Milan, where 54 silhouettes strutted with determination among a cloud of filament bulbs on a catwalk made of steel sheets. Evoking imagery of fields of will-o'-the-wisps, the Gothic imaginings present in this year’s fashion week are all the stronger because they were born from ultra-modernity.
Expressionist, from all points of view. Miuccia Prada relies as much on the gothic novels of Mary Shelley (the "mother” of Frankenstein) as on the Gothic counterculture born in London in the early 1980s, demonstrated by the films of Tim Burton. A pair of 1950s silk crepe dresses, early-century lace bodices and military uniforms, including the Bomber Jacket worn by Gigi Hadid, demonstrate the juxtaposition felt by Miuccia Prada, who describes the contrast as, “Romance and fear, the two forces I most feel at the moment.”
Very convincing as the role of Christina Ricci, the English supermodel Cara Delevingne takes the lead in a cohort of "beginners" freshly spotted by Ashley Brokaw. In the forefront of which is Dutch model Isa Peerdeman, who is still gaining recognition.