Facing the Eiffel Tower, Anthony Vaccarello transformed his latest show for Saint Laurent into a sumptuous golden vision, imbued with nostalgia and the light of memories.

Against the backdrop of the illuminated Eiffel Tower, Anthony Vaccarello presented a Saint Laurent show that was seemingly suspended between brilliance and melancholy. For Spring/Summer 2027, the Belgian designer reduced almost his entire palette to a single color, gold, until the silhouettes disappeared in a mesmerizing cascade of light. A spectacular way to celebrate ten years at the helm of the house, but also, perhaps, to write its final chapter, as guests speculated following the show's conclusion.
On the Trocadéro esplanade, three immense golden chandeliers seemed to float above the black catwalk, echoing the shimmering Eiffel Tower. The setting evoked the ballroom of the InterContinental Hotel where Yves Saint Laurent once presented his haute couture collections. Surrounded by this ideal, almost surreal Parisian night, references to the founder mingled with a more contemporary emotion: that of a designer confronting his own legacy.
“I love gold, it’s a magical color,” Yves Saint Laurent once said, quoted in the show’s program notes. Vaccarello transformed it into a material of memories, evoking the founder's native Algeria, the lights of Marrakech, the precious objects collected with Pierre Bergé, and the jewelry of Loulou de la Falaise. Fitted trench coats, safari jackets, midi skirts, suits, and cocktail dresses are thus covered in lamé, brocade, jacquard, lace, or latex. The gold is patinated, creased, iridescent, glowing red, and sometimes even absorbed by the leather.

Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027. Getty Images.

This hypnotic monochrome doesn't so much seek to reinvent Saint Laurent's codes as to reveal them in a new light. The silhouettes become almost abstract, reduced to their essential lines, while oversized jewelry and sandals extend this golden obsession to its very limits. Then black bursts forth, in a dozen silhouettes that abruptly interrupt the dream. Anja Rubik, in a velvet skirt suit with eighties accents, seems to open the door to another scene: that of the aftermath.
The tone of the show took on a particular resonance given the speculation surrounding Vaccarello's future at Saint Laurent. Many of his friends were there—Zoë Kravitz, Rami Malek, Kate Moss, Catherine Deneuve, Hailey Bieber, as well as Donatella Versace and Pierpaolo Piccioli. Then Charlotte Gainsbourg took to the stage to sing, before being embraced by the designer to the applause of the audience. After the finale, Vaccarello went to his son Luca, to whom he gave a small lucky charm resembling keys.
The designer left behind no explanation, only an enigmatic phrase in the show notes: "What leaves sometimes leaves more light than what remains." Under the golden chandeliers and the light of the Eiffel Tower,&nbsp;Vaccarello reminded us that the most beautiful farewells are sometimes those that continue to shine after we have left the stage.

For Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027, Anthony Vaccarello Leaves the Stage in the Spotlight

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