Molly Goddard has become a highlight of London Fashion Week over the last five years, attracting significant acclaim with creativity, authenticity, and a heaping pile of tulle. She defines, develops, and refines her own style each season, incorporating new elements into her dreamy, crafted sartorial language without ever losing sight of her identity.
For Spring 2020, Goddard has continued to highlight the strongest aspects of her oeuvre, including the famous tulle dress that achieved the rank of fashion symbol after appearing on the hit series Killing Eve. Last season, the cultural obsession had led her to show an absolutely massive magenta gown, which naturally made its way into the Met for the "Camp: Notes on Fashion" exhibit after going viral on Instagram. This time around, while the designer continued to build upon her familiar silhouettes, she also entered a new era of introspection in playing with the subtleties of her craft.
The first looks reveal a clever game of overlays mixed with transparency, a winning combination only possible via the expert treatment of tulle only the designer understands so well. The volumetric approach occupies a major role again this season—grounding her dreamy work in excess poplin or raw denim, Goddard creates new life by sculpting the movement and silhouette. Glamorous designers delving into daywear and denim seems to be a trend this season, as Brandon Maxwell, who recently won a CFDA for his captivating evening gowns, sent several models down the runway in jeans and chambray shirts during his New York show last week. It seems that in 2020, wearable ensembles are really chic, and by extension, it's easier than ever to integrate a high-fashion flair into everyday looks.
This season also embraced a graphic aesthetic with the use of thick links and knots in shades like off-white or red and the presence of accessories like red boots, metallic sandals, and studded handbags. The palette, relatively concise for such a maximalist designer, blends neutral tones like black, white, and nude with curated shades of bleached blue, chick yellow, and acid green. If Molly Goddard's previous work only had a true place in dreams and special occasions, next season looks much easier to appropriate on a daily basis. Indeed, it was a collection worthy of the rousing applause it received.