Fashion Week

What to Remember About Valentino Spring 2020

Challenging the clichés around monochrome, Piccioli showed how couture techniques can bring new life to the everyday.
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Valentino always creates a true showstopping moment of fashion week. The brand has always been a vision of modern Italian glamour, but in recent seasons Pierpaolo Piccioli has brought the brand to new heights, melding romanticism and inclusivity to produce collections that have made Céline Dion, founder Valentino Garavani, and many an oversaturated editor tear up at the sheer beauty of it all.

With the house having become the star of couture week, ready-to-wear arguably has lower stakes, but Piccioli still delivers every time, showing how his dreamy visions can work in a more everyday setting. From dresses with pockets (how many times do we have to say this? This is what the people want!) to voluminous daywear to a monochromatic opening range that drew connections to the 1968 All White collection by Valentino himself, Spring 2020 did not disappoint, continuing to display how breathtaking details can translate to casual wares while drawing from a host of inspirations like the Renaissance, Rousseau, and the Italian summer aesthetic that defined much of Milan this season. Below, learn three key aspects that made the high-profile collection such a magical experience.

The Atmosphere

Ahead of the show, guests entered a neon green winter garden environment where a woman's voice and a man's voice resonated, "I'll be with you. (...) I'll be there." The promises each voice makes signify the importance Pierpaolo Piccioli gives to words. This builds on last season, when the collection had a "Valentino On Love" theme featuring recorded texts by the likes of Robert Montgomery, Greta Bellamacina, and Mustafa the Poet. At the bottom of the podium, two circular mirrors created an imaginary vortex, promoting a sense of intrigue as the new designs made their debut.

 

The Collection

Sweeping away any idea of asceticism, which often comes to mind when one thinks of monochrome silhouettes, Piccioli organized a prelude around the color white and its dramatic impulses: pleats, ruffles, feathered effects but also of transparency. Touches of fluorescent color then electrified the collection, leading the way for prints taking inspiration from nature. By hue alone, the array of looks appear to have vastly different aesthetics, but Piccioli proved that each has the potential for a maximalist but incredibly wearable glamour.

 

The Detail 

An uncommon concept in Paris but always alive in New York, the “See Now Buy Now” philosophy found a place within the forward-thinking collection at Valentino. The house's Rockstud Spike bag found bright iterations in shades of neon pink, yellow, and orange. Tiny but able to hold much more than a Mini Chiquito, the eye-catching accessory is available for purchase online and in a selection of stores. 

Valentino Women's Spring 2020 Show

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