Fashion

The Highlights of Couture Spring 2018

From seeing double at Margiela's show to Vauthier's rectangular bedazzled sunglasses— this year's couture was extra rebellious.
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Margiela’s Flash-Friendly Couture

It’s only the first month of the year, but Galliano has already made two breakthroughs with his first menswear show and his couture collection. While everybody seemed to be feeling the throwback this season — either with a 90’s or 80’s revival — Galliano looked forward and went high-tech. At Margiela’s Artisanal show, guests were encouraged to turn their camera flashes on, capturing images of iridescent fabric on see-through trench coats. So in theory, were there in fact two collections (one captured without a flash on and the other with)?

 

Valentino’s Feather Fest

Pierpaolo Piccoli defined couture this season with over-exaggerated headpieces and (surprisingly) down-to-earth clothing. On the runway: baggy camel trousers, a sheer tank untucked, and a baby blue feathery headwear overflowing (and balancing) on a model’s head. The headpieces were designed by none other than Philip Treacy, whose spellbinding hats have been worn by Lady Gaga and used in numerous fashion shows like Alexander McQueen and Givenchy.

Vauthier’s 80’s Club-Kid Couture

Vauthier never disappoints with his rock 80’s couture vibes. He played with broad shoulders, red-leather harem pants, and a giant tartan bow. “I like that it’s a little anarchic but with the codes of couture,” told Vauthier to Vogue Runway. But best of all, the French designer announced a new sunglasses collaboration with the eyewear label Alain Mikli— starring Kate Moss in the campaign. And they’re to die for.

Clare Waight Keller’s First Couture for Givenchy

The Chloé alumni channeled Hubert de Givenchy’s style for her first couture collection on Tuesday in Paris. “The structure and graphism Hubert had in his work at the beginning,” she told Vogue Runway. As the label’s first female artistic director, she emphasized feminine silhouettes, with tailored suits, pleated long skirts, and skinny high-waisted pants.

Two-Year-Old Model at Gaultier

Supermodel Coco Rocha surprised everyone at Jean Paul Gaultier’s show when she closed the runway with her two-year-old daughter, Ioni James Conran. They were even wearing the same off-the-shoulder dress and hairstyle. If you haven’t followed her already, Conran has quite a following on Instagram (65.9k followers) and she already scored a GAP campaign last May. Watch out Kaia Gerber, she might catch up sooner than you think.

Dior’s Masks

For Dior’s haute couture collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri transformed models into surrealist art pieces walking down a massive checkerboard runway. As if the painted-on lashes and winged liners were not enough, models wore rectangular and lacy masks, designed by Stephen Jones. No doubt that if those masks ever hit the shelves, they would run out in a heartbeat— though we're not sure if those “fashion-forward” customers would ever find a real purpose for them. Do they count as sunglasses?

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