At just 26, Nicolas Lecourt Mansion, winner of the 2019 Andam Creative Label prize, is a force of nature with a celebrity clientele including Lady Gaga, Nicki Minaj, Kendall Jenner, and more. The French designer is known for her crystal-covered confections and slinky silhouettes. Lecourt Mansion’s namesake label is just three years old, but has already made a name for itself for its inclusive and glamorous reputation. Here, the designer speaks with L’OFFICIEL about her experience in fashion as a trans person, the definition of French style, and why there’s no such thing as too much glitter.
L’OFFICIEL: Was Haute Couture a passion for you when you were young?
Nicolas Lecourt Mansion: My father worked in men’s retail, and I would look at fashion magazines in his office. I would try to draw Christain Lacroix’s and John Galliano’s wedding gowns. My favorite designer will always be Azzedine Alaïa. He knew how to listen to women.
You’ve worked with Rita Ora and Nicki Minaj during their tours. How does show business influence your designs?
Clothes must allow an artist to move freely. For Nicki and Rita, I was their personal tailor.
Why so much glitter?
I’m obsessed with brilliance, light, reflection—that’s why I enjoy designing stage costumes. For Andam, I worked with Swarovski. That collaboration gave me the opportunity to with work with some amazing craftsmen. It was almost surgical, very meticulous. I love this way of working: staying connected to the manufacturing.
How would you define your fashion?
Fearless. I create clothes the way I wear them. It’s almost visually therapeutic. It’s quite powerful.
Did receiving the Andam prize in 2019 change the way you worked?
Yes, immensely. It gave me so much confidence. I was on tour with Nicki when the finalists were announced. I was so surprised when I heard my name!
Do you think that French fashion is inclusive enough?
No, fashion is never inclusive enough. I am a trans person, and I try to create fashion that is label-free. Jean-Paul Gaultier and Galliano were pioneers of inclusivity, but they were seen as freaks and used as marketing tools. Those who are nonconformist are not freaks. I’m different but not a freak.
Is there such a thing as ‘French style,’ and if so, what is it?
Yes! It’s couture, the process of turning craft into flamboyance. It is impertinent, sexy, and maybe slightly vulgar.
Read more in L’OFFICIEL’s Global September 2020 issue, available on newsstands and online now.